Domaine Olivier Morin

Chitry-le-Fort | Burgundy
The petite town of Chitry is starting to make waves among the sommelier and restaurant set, as a source of top-notch Burgundian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir — and the name on everyone’s lips is Olivier Morin.

Since 1992, when he left a life in the music industry to take over the family domaine, essentially trading in his turntables for a tractor, Olivier has never looked back.

Crucially, the vineyards of Chitry (she-TREE) share exactly the same chalky, Kimmeridgian soils as Chablis. Yet unlike with many laisser-faire Chablis producers, Olivier and his wife, Nelly, are detailed and diligent, caring for their older vines organically, as well as fermenting on indigenous yeasts and adding but homeopathic doses of sulfur at bottling.

These are wines that transcend this modest appellation with their resonant flavors and stunning complexity, and what’s more, offer outstanding value.

FARMING & WINEMAKING

Olivier Morin tends some 30 acres of land in the department of the Yonne, between Auxerre and Chablis. The medieval village of Chitry-le-Fort is the center of the small Bourgogne Chitry appellation, and just a stone’s throw from the village of Chablis. Indeed, here the soils are also identical to those in Chablis—Kimmeridgian and Portlandian limestone, very chalky and mineral-rich.

The estate is not certified but adheres to organic farming practices, including fermenting on indigenous yeasts, planting natural herbs between vineyard rows to prevent erosion and using only organic fertilizer in the fields. The soil is plowed to encourage vine roots to dig deep into the region’s chalky soils; vines, on average, are 30 years old.

Olivier’s cellar is located partially underground, allowing him to move juice and wine via gravity. Whites are fermented and aged in stainless steel tank; reds are aged mostly in older French oak barrels. Very little sulfur is added at any step in the winemaking process, and wines are bottled unfiltered.

WHITE WINES
Bourgogne Aligoté

Pure white wine pleasure. Olivier’s Aligoté is a cut above; bright apple and citrus, crushed stones, sea salt, so much thirst-quenching energy. A must-have for summer.

 

 

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Bourgogne Chitry Blanc 'Constance'
A gorgeous white with vim and verve, cut from the cloth of Chablis but pushes even further, with a purity and silky texture that reminds of Chassagne-Montrachet. Irresistible!

 

 

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RED WINES
Bourgogne Pinot Noir 'Circonstances'
A special selection from a seriously challenging year. Winemaker Olivier Morin, after suffering crop loss following hail and frost during the spring of 2016, teamed up with local growers and family friends to source Pinot Noir grapes from those who had a few to spare. Thus was born a wine of “circumstance,” proving the adage that it does indeed take a village. But what a wine — full flavored, wonderfully spiced, a lithe and lovely red for everyday drinking.

 

 

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Bourgogne Chitry Rouge 'Constance'
Pure Pinot Noir with spice and silk, light on the tongue yet deeply flavored, with notes of red plums, cherries, pomegranate. Olivier Morin’s vines are older, between 30 and 50 years old, enjoying a hillside, southern exposure for fruit that is both ripe and balanced.

 

 

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Established: 1992
Winemaker: Olivier Morin
Region: France • Burgundy • Chitry-le-Fort
Vineyard size: 30 acres

PRACTICING ORGANIC

Domaine Vincent Dureuil Janthial Burgundy France